Starry Starry Night in Baja

At night, here in Todos Santos, all I seem to do is look up. At the stars - lots of them. On some nights, I can see the Milky Way and it is sight that renders me speechless. Not only is it entirely new to me but it is also deeply moving. How could it not be?

With these kinds of vistas, it is easy to find yourself asking questions about the world or the universe. As simple and cliche as it may seem, I often look up and wonder about our place in the cosmos and creation. You don't get these kinds of thoughts looking up in Los Angeles. With nothing to look up at, there's really no point, is there?

I grew up in Los Angeles, a city that is lit to the nines and it's located in a region that is lit from sea to desert by street lights, business signs, electronic billboards, car lights and more. You name it, it's lit. Even porch lights contribute to the light pollution. Some homeowners require klieg lights to keep the prowlers away, akin to using a hammer to flatten a slow-moving snail.

So when I came to Todos Santos, I was taken aback by the night skies. I can't get enough. After dinner many nights, when my friends and I are outside enjoying a warm Baja night, I often stand and look up. Sometimes I'm lucky enough to see a shooting star. Other nights, I realize that I saw a constellation I had not seen before. When the moon is full or nearly full, I love its effect on the landscape.

It's hard to imagine a similar scene taking place in Los Angeles. I am told that when the 1994 Northridge earthquake hit, we had dark skies for a day or two, and many saw the night sky as they had never seen it before.

There's a slower pace of life here and it is certainly tied to the landscape and, by landscape, I also include the skies. The beaches, the surrounding desert, the dusty roads, the cactus and star-filled nights put you in a different place. Sure, I sometimes miss the hustle and bustle of Los Angeles, but there's something to be said for an environment and a way of life that give you moments of pause and reflection. How can you not appreciate that?

A swim in the Bay of Dreams

Yesterday, I went with friends to the other side of the peninsula to visit another gem of  a swimming spot along the east cost of the Baja Peninsula: Bahia de los Suenos.  A friend and colleague has been serving as host to friends from Italy and she wanted them to see another slice of Baja. On Saturday we visited Los Cerritos Beach, just south of Todos Santos, so it seemed only fair to try something on "the other side."

I have swum in the coves and bays of the Sea of Cortez twice so far and both - near the Isla de Santo Espiritu and in the Bahia de Concepcion - were wonder-filled experiences for different reasons. I expected this one to be no different.

Bahia de los Suenos (Bay of Dreams) is also known as Bahia de los Muertos (Bay of the Dead). No one seems quite sure how it got that name, but it was confirmed when a 19th century Chinese ship was turned away at La Paz, an hour north. Its crew later died of yellow fever and were buried near the bay, further cementing its name. I can't tell you how it got its current, more light-hearted name, but I'm sure one or two of my more persistent friends will find the answer online.

We arrived to 97 degree weather with - thankfully - an overcast sky, but the water looked amazing. In we went.  No waves, just relatively calm water that allowed us to swim, float and talk with each other.

Looking south towards the Gran Sueno resort.

Looking north towards the entrance to the beach and bay. 

I took a walk down the beach to look at vacation homes I saw from afar. Tucked away in a corner of the bay, they appear to be part of the Gran Sueno Resort, a swanky getaway, to say the least. The resort includes a golf course and equestrian center. I've read that up to 600 homes are eventually planned in the area, too. Given the beauty of the bay and surrounding area, it does not surprise me.

South, closer to Gran Sueno Resort. The walk looked short, but it wasn't. Still, it was definitely worth the time and effort. 

Another amazing view looking north.

We arrived around 10:30 am and there were only about 10-15 other people on the beach. By the time we left around 2:00 pm, there were maybe 30 at most. I'm sure that, in the height of the travel season (think late fall, winter and spring) there would be more visitors, but I can't imagine it being crowded.

We returned to our car and drove home, passing through the nearby mountain range to get home. We drove through the town of El Triunfo once again, a small village that was once home to the largest population in Baja in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  It is a quaint town and hosts the Museo de la Musica, a piano museum, a remnant of its heyday. I kid you not.

Holy cow, what have I done?

If you had told me last year - much less four months ago - that I would be going to Baja to work for a month or more, I doubt I would have believed you. I would have assigned you to that group of friends that I love dearly but strongly believe are orbiting the planet at a height where little oxygen is getting to your brain.

On Wednesday, I'll be leaving for Baja California Sur with my newly acquired colleague Chris and a friend of his. With the assistance of Google maps, I've figured we'll have ourselves a 1,000-mile road trip over the course of several days, meeting with travel and tourism-related businesses along the way. We'll be working for Baja.com, the most trafficked website about Baja California. It gets more visitors than the government's Baja tourism site.

It was through a series of coincidences that I found this opportunity. My best friend, Maggie, called to find a vacation rental in Todos Santos (translation: All Saints), in the southern tip of Baja. In the process, she met Jim, the owner of Calycanto Casitas, eco-friendly rentals. Take a look. I think you'll be impressed.

Some have described Todos Santos as the Taos, New Mexico of Baja. The village is located one hour north of Cabo San Lucas, the Waikiki of Baja.

My friends have expressed great enthusiasm about the opportunity and especially the location. Like me, they think it's a great opportunity that comes along once in a blue moon. I'm grateful for the enthusiasm, support and affection they have shown.

I even dreamed about it. A good sign in my book. That said, I'm not a believer in dreams. I rarely remember them, much less attribute significance, metaphysical or otherwise, to them. Still, I had a fairly vivid dream in which I was describing the opportunity to a friend. And she turned to me and said, "This is a good thing. You should do it." I woke up and figured my subconscious had been doing some calculations of its own and I should take the advice.

So, nothin's going to stop me, right?

After expressing their utmost support, my friends express concern about violence. "Be careful," they say. "How's the violence there," they ask in soothing yet supportive tones. "Is it dangerous?" ask the ones who've heard just enough to worry and wonder if the entire country is up in arms.

Their concerns about my safety are appreciated, but some of the concern is misplaced.

Much of the violence is located in border towns. I've checked the U.S. State Department's advisory for Mexico and kept an eye open for reports that provide a reasonable accounting what is and isn't true. In addition, Mexican officials and others have been trying to contain misinformation about travel in the country.

In spite of the perceptions of violence, travel to Mexico is up, according to story by the AFP wire service.

It's important to know what is happening in the country and I've got my Google searchbots running for anything that relates to Baja California and Todo Santos. They are not perfect, but they keep me apprised of the latest news.

Altogether, my research has made me feel very comfortable about Baja and the upcoming trip. And it has reminded me of the way I live my life in Los Angeles:
Stay out of some neighborhoods, be careful after dark, etc.

Like an traveler or resident of a metropolitan area you remind yourself, "Don't be stupid and you'll be fine."

Got it. No stupidity. Enjoy the trip.

I'm stoked.